擒数网 (随信APP) | Kim Jones在无功无过的4年之后正式宣布离开FENDI

擒数网 (随信APP) | Kim Jones在无功无过的4年之后正式宣布离开FENDI
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10 月 12 日消息,Kim Jones 结束了和 FENDI 的 4 年合作,正式离职。不出意外的话,9 月刚刚举行的 2025 春夏女装秀就是 Kim Jones 在品牌的谢幕。

Kim Jones 在 2020 年 9 月出任 FENDI 女装艺术总监,负责品牌的女士高级定制和成衣系列。他同时还是 DIOR 的男装艺术总监,两家品牌同属 LVMH 集团。这次确认 Kim Jones 离开 FENDI 的公告中也专门强调了他在 DIOR 的工作不受影响。

Kim Jones 的离职有迹可循,过去一年多来一直有相关的消息传出。今年 5 月 FENDI 任命 Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou 出任 CEO 也释放出改变的信号,而到 6 月,品牌又缺席了 2024 秋冬高定周。

刚结束的 2025 春夏时装周 期间,各种关于人事变动的消息传得沸沸扬扬,FENDI 也是传言中多位设计师的潜在下家,当中不乏 前 Valentino 创意总监 Pierpaolo Piccioli 以及 John Galliano 这些明星。如今随着 FENDI 女装艺术总监的位置空出,相关传言被印证,接下来就看哪位设计师会抢到这个位置了。

其实原本 4 年前在 DIOR 做得风生水起的 Kim Jones 加入 FENDI 是被寄予厚望的,一位设计师同时担任两家顶奢品牌的创意总监这并不常见,Kim Jones 也因此被认为是 Karl Lagerfeld 的接班人。但现在来看,结局显然没有“老佛爷”的圆满。

从个人品牌到登喜路,再到 Louis Vuitton 和 DIOR,Kim Jones 一直都在做男装,在 FENDI 的工作是他首次正式涉足女装。人们一度预测 FENDI 将在 Kim Jones 的带领下进行年轻化转型或者做出更多全新的尝试,但从第一季到最后,Kim Jones 主导下的 FENDI 女装也始终以优雅为主线,甚至是极简成熟的,一些年轻的、潮流化的,甚至激进的变化并没有发生。

Kim Jones 也将自己擅长的合作项目带到了 FENDI,其中最让人印象深刻的是 2022 早秋和 Versace 的联名,两家分属不同集团的主流奢侈品牌进行联名,即便到今天也非常少见(在那之后,也的确几乎没有再看到过类似量级的品牌联手)。

此外在 2023 早春系列,为庆祝 Baguette 手袋诞生 25 周年,FENDI 和同属 LVMH 的蒂芙尼以及 Marc Jacobs 进行了合作,也制造了一波话题。

无论是业内评价还是市场反馈,Kim Jones 在 FENDI 的表现都基本算是无功无过,虽然整体水准在线,但除了几个联名项目,其实并没有哪场秀或者哪件产品引起过非常热烈的讨论。

同时 FENDI 的年销售额虽然突破了 20 亿欧元大关,但却被同集团的 CELINE 赶超,以 FENDI 在集团的地位来说这多少有些尴尬,LVMH 显然对 FENDI 有着更高的期待。

2025 年 FENDI 将迎来品牌创立 100 周年的里程碑(今年 5 月 FENDI 时隔近 10 年重启了香水线,也被作为了品牌百年庆生的项目之一),不出意外新的女装艺术总监也会就位,FENDI 将在庆祝百岁生日的同时开启新的征程。

其实对于 LVMH 来说,未来一年可能会非常热闹。在 FENDI 之前, GIVENCHYCELINE 都已经换好了创意总监。同时有消息称 DIOR 将在明年年初结束和 Maria Grazia Chiuri 的合作,接替她的会是 Jonathan Anderson。

而这样的话,刚刚报出 2023 财年收入增长 30%(8.11 亿欧元)、净利润增长超过 60%(具体是 62.5%,2.1 亿欧元)的华丽数据的 LOEWE 也会需要寻找一位新创意总监。这可能会是一系列的连锁反应。

英文版:

On October 12, Kim Jones concluded his 4-year collaboration with FENDI and officially resigned. It is likely that the 2025 Spring/Summer women's show held in September was Kim Jones's farewell at the brand.

Kim Jones became the artistic director of FENDI women's wear in September 2020, responsible for the brand's women's high-end custom and ready-to-wear collections. He also serves as the artistic director of men's wear at DIOR, both brands belonging to the LVMH group. The announcement confirming Kim Jones's departure from FENDI also emphasized that his work at DIOR would not be affected.

Kim Jones's departure had been anticipated, with related news circulating for over a year. In May of this year, FENDI appointed Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou as CEO, signaling changes, and by June, the brand was absent from the 2024 Fall/Winter Haute Couture Week.

During the recently concluded 2025 Spring/Summer Fashion Week, there were abundant rumors about personnel changes, with FENDI being speculated as the potential next home for several designers, including former Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and John Galliano. With the position of FENDI's artistic director for women's wear now vacant, these rumors are substantiated, and the focus is on which designer will fill this role next.

Originally, there were high hopes for Kim Jones when he joined FENDI four years ago after a successful run at DIOR. It is unusual for a designer to simultaneously hold the creative director position at two top luxury brands, and Kim Jones was considered as the successor to Karl Lagerfeld. However, the outcome, as it appears now, is not as satisfying as expected.

From his own brand to Dior Men, and then to Louis Vuitton and DIOR, Kim Jones has always been in men's wear, with his work at FENDI marking his first official foray into women's wear. There were predictions that FENDI would undergo a rejuvenation or venture into new territories under Kim Jones's leadership. However, from the first season to the last, FENDI women's wear under Kim Jones' direction has always been characterized by elegance, even minimalistic maturity, with no significant young, trendy, or radical changes observed.

Kim Jones also brought his successful collaboration projects to FENDI, with one of the most memorable being the 2022 Fall and Versace collaboration, a rare joint effort between mainstream luxury brands from different groups (since then, similar large-scale brand collaborations have been almost non-existent).

In the 2023 Spring series, to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Baguette handbag, FENDI collaborated with TIFFANY and Marc Jacobs, also under LVMH, creating a buzz.

Both industry reviews and market feedback suggest that Kim Jones's performance at FENDI was relatively lackluster. While the overall quality was there, aside from a few collaboration projects, there were no shows or products that sparked significant discussions.

Meanwhile, although FENDI's annual sales surpassed 2 billion euros, it was surpassed by CELINE within the same group, which is somewhat awkward considering FENDI's position within LVMH. Clearly, LVMH has higher expectations for FENDI.

In 2025, FENDI will celebrate its 100th anniversary (in May of this year, FENDI relaunched its perfume line after nearly 10 years, as part of the brand's centenary celebrations), and as expected, a new artistic director for women's wear will also be appointed, marking FENDI's new journey while celebrating its centenary.

For LVMH, the next year may be quite eventful. Prior to FENDI, GIVENCHY and CELINE had already secured new creative directors. There are also reports that DIOR will end its collaboration with Maria Grazia Chiuri early next year, with Jonathan Anderson set to take over.

With this, LOEWE, which recently reported a 30% increase in revenue for the 2023 fiscal year (811 million euros) and a net profit growth of over 60% (specifically 62.5%, 210 million euros), will also need to find a new creative director. This could trigger a series of chain reactions.


在无功无过的 4 年之后,Kim Jones 正式确认从 FENDI 离职 | 理想生活实验室
#在无功无过的 #年之后Kim #Jones #正式确认从 #FENDI #离职 #理想生活实验室

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