擒数网 (随信APP) | Kim Jones 正式离开 FENDI,结束了 4 年的合作。
10 月 12 日消息,Kim Jones 结束了和 FENDI 的 4 年合作,正式离职。不出意外的话,9 月刚刚举行的 2025 春夏女装秀就是 Kim Jones 在品牌的谢幕。
Kim Jones 在 2020 年 9 月出任 FENDI 女装艺术总监,负责品牌的女士高级定制和成衣系列。他同时还是 DIOR 的男装艺术总监,两家品牌同属 LVMH 集团。这次确认 Kim Jones 离开 FENDI 的公告中也专门强调了他在 DIOR 的工作不受影响。
Kim Jones 的离职有迹可循,过去一年多来一直有相关的消息传出。今年 5 月 FENDI 任命 Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou 出任 CEO 也释放出改变的信号,而到 6 月,品牌又缺席了 2024 秋冬高定周。
刚结束的 2025 春夏时装周期间,各种关于人事变动的消息传得沸沸扬扬,FENDI 也是传言中多位设计师的潜在下家,当中不乏前 Valentino 创意总监 Pierpaolo Piccioli 以及 John Galliano 这些明星。如今随着 FENDI 女装艺术总监的位置空出,相关传言被印证,接下来就看哪位设计师会抢到这个位置了。
其实原本 4 年前在 DIOR 做得风生水起的 Kim Jones 加入 FENDI 是被寄予厚望的,一位设计师同时担任两家顶奢品牌的创意总监这并不常见,Kim Jones 也因此被认为是 Karl Lagerfeld 的接班人。但现在来看,结局显然没有“老佛爷”的圆满。
从个人品牌到登喜路,再到 Louis Vuitton 和 DIOR,Kim Jones 一直都在做男装,在 FENDI 的工作是他首次正式涉足女装。人们一度预测 FENDI 将在 Kim Jones 的带领下进行年轻化转型或者做出更多全新的尝试,但从第一季到最后,Kim Jones 主导下的 FENDI 女装也始终以优雅为主线,甚至是极简成熟的,一些年轻的、潮流化的,甚至激进的变化并没有发生。
Kim Jones 也将自己擅长的合作项目带到了 FENDI,其中最让人印象深刻的是 2022 早秋和 Versace 的联名,两家分属不同集团的主流奢侈品牌进行联名,即便到今天也非常少见(在那之后,也的确几乎没有再看到过类似量级的品牌联手)。
此外在 2023 早春系列,为庆祝 Baguette 手袋诞生 25 周年,FENDI 和同属 LVMH 的蒂芙尼以及 Marc Jacobs 进行了合作,也制造了一波话题。
无论是业内评价还是市场反馈,Kim Jones 在 FENDI 的表现都基本算是无功无过,虽然整体水准在线,但除了几个联名项目,其实并没有哪场秀或者哪件产品引起过非常热烈的讨论。
同时 FENDI 的年销售额虽然突破了 20 亿欧元大关,但却被同集团的 CELINE 赶超,以 FENDI 在集团的地位来说这多少有些尴尬,LVMH 显然对 FENDI 有着更高的期待。
2025 年 FENDI 将迎来品牌创立 100 周年的里程碑(今年 5 月 FENDI 时隔近 10 年重启了香水线,也被作为了品牌百年庆生的项目之一),不出意外新的女装艺术总监也会就位,FENDI 将在庆祝百岁生日的同时开启新的征程。
其实对于 LVMH 来说,未来一年可能会非常热闹。在 FENDI 之前,GIVENCHY 和 CELINE 都已经换好了创意总监。同时有消息称 DIOR 将在明年年初结束和 Maria Grazia Chiuri 的合作,接替她的会是 Jonathan Anderson。
而这样的话,刚刚报出 2023 财年收入增长 30%(8.11 亿欧元)、净利润增长超过 60%(具体是 62.5%,2.1 亿欧元)的华丽数据的 LOEWE 也会需要寻找一位新创意总监。这可能会是一系列的连锁反应。
英文版:
On October 12th, Kim Jones ended his 4-year collaboration with FENDI and officially resigned. It is likely that the 2025 Spring/Summer women's wear show held in September was Kim Jones's farewell at the brand.
Kim Jones became the artistic director of FENDI's women's wear in September 2020, responsible for the brand's haute couture and ready-to-wear collections for women. He also serves as the artistic director of men's wear at DIOR, both brands being under the LVMH group. The announcement confirming Kim Jones's departure from FENDI also emphasized that his work at DIOR will not be affected.
Kim Jones's departure has been anticipated, with relevant rumors circulating for over a year. The appointment of Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou as the CEO of FENDI in May this year signaled a change, and by June, the brand was absent from the 2024 Fall/Winter Haute Couture Week.
During the recently concluded 2025 Spring/Summer fashion cycle, there were various rumors about personnel changes, and FENDI was rumored to be the potential new home for several designers, including former Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and John Galliano. And now, with the position of artistic director of FENDI women's wear vacant, these speculations have been confirmed, and it remains to be seen which designer will seize the opportunity.
Originally, when Kim Jones joined FENDI four years ago after a successful stint at DIOR, he was highly anticipated. It is uncommon for a designer to simultaneously hold the position of creative director at two top luxury brands, and Kim Jones was considered to be Karl Lagerfeld's successor. However, the outcome, as it stands now, is not as successful as expected.
From his own brand to Dunhill, then to Louis Vuitton and DIOR, Kim Jones has always been involved in men's wear, and his work at FENDI is his first formal foray into women's wear. People had predicted that FENDI would undergo a rejuvenating transformation or make more innovative attempts under Kim Jones's leadership, but from the first season to the last, the FENDI women's wear led by Kim Jones has consistently revolved around elegance, even tending towards simplicity and maturity, with no significant youthful, trendy, or radical changes to be seen.
Kim Jones also brought his expertise in collaborations to FENDI, with the most impressive being the joint collection with Versace in early autumn 2022, a collaboration between two mainstream luxury brands from different groups, which remains rare even today (since then, there have hardly been similar collaborations of that caliber).
In addition, in the early spring collection of 2023 to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Baguette handbag, FENDI collaborated with Tiffany, also under the LVMH umbrella, and Marc Jacobs, creating quite a buzz.
Regardless of industry evaluations or market feedback, Kim Jones's performance at FENDI can be considered as unremarkable; although the overall level was maintained, apart from a few collaborative projects, there was hardly any show or product that sparked heated discussions.
While FENDI's annual sales have surpassed 2 billion euros, it has been surpassed by CELINE under the same group, which is somewhat embarrassing for FENDI considering its position within the group, as LVMH clearly has higher expectations for the brand.
In 2025, as FENDI approaches its 100th anniversary (in May this year, after nearly 10 years, FENDI reintroduced its perfume line, also as one of the brand's centennial celebration projects), it is likely that a new artistic director for women's wear will take over, setting FENDI on a new journey while celebrating its centennial.
For LVMH, the upcoming year may be very eventful. Before FENDI, GIVENCHY and CELINE had already appointed new creative directors. There are also reports that DIOR will end its collaboration with Maria Grazia Chiuri early next year, with Jonathan Anderson set to succeed her.
With this in mind, LOEWE, which just reported a 30% increase in revenue (811 million euros) for the 2023 fiscal year and a net profit increase of over 60% (62.5%, 210 million euros), will also need to find a new creative director. This could trigger a series of chain reactions.
在无功无过的 4 年之后,Kim Jones 正式确认从 FENDI 离职 | 理想生活实验室
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