擒数网 (随信APP) | 星巴克在云南默默发展12年,不仅推出了“云南豆”咖啡,还给当地带来了一些变化。

擒数网 (随信APP) | 星巴克在云南默默发展12年,不仅推出了“云南豆”咖啡,还给当地带来了一些变化。
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今年9月,星巴克“云南豆”上新,今年有两款来自保山佐园农场的臻选豆,还有2017年首次推出的单一产地云南咖啡豆回归。

多年来星巴克云南咖啡的品质一年比一年出彩,现在它甚至成为了每年我们最为期待的新品之一。今年三款新豆子上市后也照例迎来大家的热情关注和积极品尝,其中臻选豆更是很快售罄,可见一斑。

事实上,虽然同为全球少数适合种植咖啡的地区之一,云南的咖啡产业却是经历了从无到有的完整的成长过程,从早期小作坊式的粗放经营,出产的咖啡主要用在各种低端速溶产品里,到现在规模化、现代化,乃至星巴克能推出最高规格的臻选豆。短短十来年,云南咖啡已经发生了翻天覆地的变化。

这样的变化的背后,正是有着像星巴克这样的企业多年来持续的投入和培育,这不仅为咖农带来了生意,作为行业中的“龙头企业”,星巴克更是为当地带来去了先进的设备与生产经验、技能培训、数字农业乃至严格的产品标准,这直接推动了当地的产业升级,更是成为了社区发展、乡村振兴重要的一部分。

2018年我们就曾去到过星巴克云南产区,而时隔6年——也是星巴克在云南深耕12年的这个时间点上,我们再次去到了云南,去看看现在的一颗咖啡豆是怎样在云南诞生的、云南豆又有什么新消息,以及现在的云南产区又有了怎样的新变化。

在“武林大会”现场,我们见证了星巴克云南咖啡的新里程碑

这次我们的云南之旅持续超过三天,当中最重磅的环节之一,是10月19日上午在普洱大剧院举行的“星巴克云南生豆优秀供应商大会”。

大会诞生于2015年,今年已经是第6届(中间因疫情中断,今年重新回归),每届都有云南各地咖农汇聚一堂,他们很多都有着自己的特色乃至“绝技”(比如豆子会有不同的风味),大家相互交流的过程就好像高手切磋,这让大会有了一个“武林大会”的俗称。

今年有来自普洱、临沧、保山等云南各产区超过1500位咖农来到“武林大会”,星巴克全球执行副总裁兼星巴克中国CEO刘文娟、星巴克全球咖啡与可持续发展执行副总裁Michelle Burns等也来到现场为大家颁奖,星巴克的重视程度、活动的规模和份量都可见一斑。

作为咖啡行业唯一一个为云南咖农组织的颁奖庆典,今年大会照例对咖农的辛勤劳动表达了感谢,星巴克现场为40多位咖农颁出了交货数量、交货合格率、出米率等标准下的6大奖项,对这些咖啡种植成果验收中的胜出者表示肯定。

还有5位咖农入选了“星巴克臻选名人堂”,他们因种出的咖啡豆成功入选星巴克臻选而获奖。

能看到无论是奖项还是奖品的设定都非常务实和接地气,现场充满欢声笑语,咖农们的笑脸尤其有感染力。大家都是为咖啡而来,每个人都非常真诚,“明星咖农”在会场内外会被大家团团包围“取经”……身在其中,我们也不禁有种蓬勃感油然而生。

这次大会还将成为星巴克云南咖啡的一个新的里程碑,在于刘文娟现场宣布了三大重磅消息,其中最重要的莫过于接下来中国内地全部星巴克门店的浓缩咖啡豆中都将加入云南豆(意味着我们常点的拿铁、美式、馥芮白等咖啡里都将有云南豆),豆子会在昆山的烘培工厂烘焙,然后直达门店。

作为星巴克最知名、最经典且用量最大的一款咖啡豆,能被选进经典浓缩咖啡进行拼配,这意味着在星巴克看来,云南豆的产量和质量都已经达到了一个很高且稳定的标准,这比肩了星巴克在全球采购的其它优质咖啡豆——星巴克以实际行动肯定了云南咖啡的价值。

同时云南单一原产地咖啡豆将在中国内地所有星巴克门店进行长期售卖。此外刘文娟还表示要争取未来每年都能有高品质的云南豆入选星巴克臻选(过去已经有13款云南豆入选过),要让“云南豆”、“云南臻选豆”成为常态。

从农场、庄园到种植者支持中心,一颗云南豆的诞生背后是无数的心血和汗水

这意味着接下来我们将有更多机会、以各种不同的方式喝到云南咖啡。而这并不容易,2012年星巴克在普洱正式落成亚太区首个咖啡种植者支持中心(Farmer Support Center,简称FSC),开始全面推进云南咖啡产区的建设和培育,足足用了12年,才走到了今天的成就。

这背后有着星巴克的持续投入,也有着咖农们的辛勤努力,从种植、成长到收成,然后有星巴克咖啡种植者支持中心进行验收、生豆粗加工、杯测、持续的反馈调整和种植培训等等,一颗云南豆的诞生,背后是无数的心血和汗水。

这次我们的云南之旅也去到了两个咖啡农场和星巴克咖啡种植者支持中心。其中在海拔1200米的普洱晴开农场(星巴克2019年推出了晴开农场臻选豆,这是第一个以咖农名字命名的单一产区臻选豆),农场主人蔡晴开和我们分享了他的咖啡之路与种植故事。

之前蔡晴开还只是一位爱喝咖啡的货车司机,2006年他倾其所有盘下种植地,踏上了咖啡种植旅程,但直到2009年才有少量收成,但仍是亏损。

2012年在星巴克咖啡种植者支持中心的帮助下,蔡晴开成为了第一批受益咖农。这12年里蔡晴开也和星巴克的农艺师建立了深厚的情谊,“就像家人般的存在”。

晴开农场也进入到了现代化智慧农作阶段。这次在现场,蔡晴开向我们介绍了晴开农场采用的干燥机处理法处理工艺,这解决了采摘季与雨季重叠产生的霉变难题,还有咖啡豆无水处理法,它的用水量相比传统水洗法节约了80%。

对于未来,蔡晴开充满畅想,他希望晴开农场未来除了种植,还能带动更多农户建立合作社,带领更多当地人发展更多业态,让更多人能来到咖啡产区,接近自然,体验咖啡田里的文旅生活。

我们去到的另一个咖啡农场是鑫瑞咖啡庄园,它和晴开农场一样也是星巴克示范农场。

庄园主人小普和星巴克云南咖啡种植者⽀持中⼼的农艺师王万东带我们实地深入咖啡田,也为我们分享了他们做过的工作:规范栽种间距、遮荫树、水土流失防治、预防治疗铁锈病、在不伤害植物的情况下用天敌生物战胜天牛虫害……小到修枝方向,大到霜冻过后咖啡苗的缓修护再生,星巴克云南咖啡种植者⽀持中⼼甚至会去检测咖啡田土壤和评估植物品种,再针对农场配比出最适合的肥料……

当这些现代化、精细化种植技术都一件件摆在我们面前,我们去到农田的感受也因此完全不同——事实上也正是有这些日复一日、实实在在的扶持,才让当地咖农对种好咖啡充满信心。这样多年下来,咖农和农艺师之间的感情也可想而知。

除了咖农的视角,在星巴克云南咖啡种植者支持中心,我们又以星巴克的视角补全了云南咖啡过去12年发展的全貌。

12年前,星巴克云南咖啡种植者支持中心总监佟亚伦来到普洱,从零开始建立了星巴克咖啡种植者支持中心。开业第一年几乎没有咖农来交豆子,那时在世界咖啡市场上云南豆也处于低于期货价格的劣势地位,佟亚伦下了决心,要让门口广场堆满咖农们的收成。

一边是咖啡产业的蓬勃发展,一边是美丽星村所展现的各种全新的可能性,两者相辅相成,共同推动着云南当地产业结构的升级。

从一杯咖啡出发,从科技助农,再到咖啡和旅游的融合,再到整个社区的可持续发展,星巴克的12年耕耘已经使得这里成为乡村振兴的一个范本,这对于其它很多乡村也有了借鉴的意义。

“跟星巴克回云南”之旅的最后,我们在离开前来到星巴克普洱创基尚城店,这是星巴克第一家“中国咖啡原产地门店”,它的设计融入了云南的地域文化,并以各种细节向咖啡种植者致敬。

在这里我们再次喝到了来自保山佐园农场的今年的臻选豆,在感受着它柔和的口感和甜白梨风味的同时,回想起过去几天我们深入云南产区探寻了咖啡的“最初十英尺”,再到这里完成面向顾客的“最后十英尺”,一颗咖啡豆走完了它的旅程,但关于云南咖啡的故事还在继续。

英文版:

In September, Starbucks introduced new "Yunnan beans," with two selected beans from Baoshan Zuoyuan Farm and the return of the single-origin Yunnan coffee beans first launched in 2017.

Over the years, the quality of Starbucks Yunnan coffee has been getting better year by year, and it has become one of the most anticipated new products every year. This year, the three new beans quickly sold out after being launched, showcasing the enthusiasm and positive tasting feedback from customers, especially for the selected beans.

In fact, despite being one of the few regions suitable for coffee cultivation globally, the Yunnan coffee industry has gone through a complete growth process from scratch. This transformation from small-scale coarse operation in the early days to the modern and large-scale operations now, even allowing Starbucks to release the highest standard selected beans, has truly revolutionized the Yunnan coffee industry in just over a decade.

This transformation has been made possible by consistent investments and nurturing efforts over the years from enterprises like Starbucks. By providing advanced equipment, production experience, skill training, digital agriculture, and strict product standards, Starbucks has not only brought business to coffee farmers but has also propelled local industrial uplift, making a significant contribution to community development and rural revitalization.

Our trip to the Yunnan coffee producing region dates back to 2018, and now, 6 years later, at a time when Starbucks has been deeply rooted in Yunnan for 12 years, we revisited Yunnan to witness the birth of a coffee bean and explore any new developments in the Yunnan producing region.

At the "Wulin Conference" site, we witnessed a new milestone for Starbucks Yunnan coffee.

Our trip to Yunnan lasted for over three days, with one of the highlights being the "Starbucks Yunnan Coffee Excellent Supplier Conference" held at the Pu'er Grand Theater on October 19th. This conference, now in its 6th year (resumed this year after the hiatus due to the pandemic), gathered coffee farmers from various areas in Yunnan. The event resembled a "martial arts assembly," where many farmers showcased their unique skills, and over 1500 farmers joined the event this year from Pu'er, Lincang, Baoshan, and other Yunnan producing regions. The presence of Starbucks global COO and CEO of Starbucks China, Liu Wenjuan, and Starbucks Global Coffee and Sustainable Development Vice President Michelle Burns, highlighted the significance and scale of the event.

As the only award ceremony in the coffee industry organized for Yunnan coffee farmers, this year's conference expressed gratitude for the hard work of farmers. Starbucks awarded over 40 farmers with 6 major awards based on standard criteria including delivery quantity, delivery qualification rate, and inspection rate, recognizing the winners who excelled in their coffee planting results. Five farmers were also inducted into the "Starbucks Selected Artist Hall of Fame" for having their coffee beans selected for Starbucks.

The practical and down-to-earth award designs and prizes created an atmosphere of joy and warmth at the event. The farmers' laughter was particularly contagious, as every individual present shared a genuine passion for coffee. The conference embodied a sense of vibrancy, reflecting the fruits of the farmers' labor.

The conference also marked a new milestone for Starbucks Yunnan coffee, with Liu Wenjuan announcing three significant pieces of news. One of the most important announcements was that Yunnan beans would be included in all Starbucks mainland China espresso coffee beans moving forward. The beans will be roasted at the Kunshan Roasting Plant and distributed directly to the stores. This move signifies Starbucks' acknowledgment of the quality and yield standards achieved by Yunnan beans, placing them on par with other premium coffee beans purchased by Starbucks globally.

Additionally, Yunnan single-origin coffee beans will be sold in all Starbucks mainland China stores in the long term. Liu Wenjuan also expressed the goal of having high-quality Yunnan beans selected for Starbucks each year, striving to make "Yunnan beans" and "Yunnan selected beans" a regular feature.

The journey from the farm, plantation to the farmer support center - the birth of a Yunnan bean is a product of countless efforts and sweat.

This implies that we will have more opportunities to enjoy Yunnan coffee in various ways moving forward. It hasn't been easy. In 2012, Starbucks officially established the first Farmer Support Center in the Asia-Pacific region in Pu'er, starting a comprehensive initiative to promote the development and cultivation of Yunnan coffee producing regions officially that culminated in today's success.

Behind this success story lies Starbucks' continuous investment and the hard work of coffee farmers. From cultivation, growth to harvest, and then through the Starbucks Coffee Farmer Support Center for inspection, rough bean processing, cup testing, continuous feedback, adjustments, and planting training - the birth of a single Yunnan bean represents the efforts and dedication of many individuals.

Our journey to Yunnan also took us to two coffee farms and the Starbucks Coffee Farmer Support Center. The Qingkai Farm at an altitude of 1200 meters in Puer (Starbucks introduced the Qingkai Farm selected beans in 2019, the first single-origin selected bean named after a farmer), where Mr. Cai Qingkai, the farm owner, shared his coffee journey and cultivation story with us.

Previously just a coffee-loving truck driver, Mr. Cai took ownership of a plantation in 2006 and embarked on a coffee cultivation journey, only seeing a small harvest in 2009, which was still a loss. In 2012, with the help of the Starbucks Coffee Farmer Support Center, Mr. Cai became one of the first farmers to benefit. Over the 12 years, a deep bond was formed between Mr. Cai and the Starbucks agronomists, resembling a family-like relationship.

The Qingkai Farm has also advanced into the phase of modern smart farming. During our visit, Mr. Cai showed us the drying machine processing technique used at the farm, which solves the challenge of mold growth due to overlapping harvest and rainy season, and the water-less processing method that saves 80% of water compared to traditional washing methods.

In terms of the future, Mr. Cai is full of expectations. Aside from cultivation, he hopes that the Qingkai Farm can lead more farmers to establish cooperatives, develop more local businesses, attract more people to the coffee producing region, bring them closer to nature, and experience the agritourism life on the coffee fields.

Another coffee farm we visited was the Xinrui Coffee Plantation, similar to the Qingkai Farm, it is also a Starbucks demonstration farm.

The plantation owner, Mr. Xiao Pu, and Starbucks agronomist, Mr. Wang W...

[To be continued...]


默默耕耘云南 12 年,星巴克不仅带来“云南豆”,还为当地带来这些改变
#默默耕耘云南 #年星巴克不仅带来云南豆还为当地带来这些改变

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